Machhapuchhre Base Camp to Annapurna Base Camp
Today was a big day; only about 2 hours walk, but it was “summit day”. For us trekkers we would be reaching the highest point on our walk, although we were merely going to what is the starting point for mountaineering expeditions. But we were aware we would need to cope with the exertion of a steady plod uphill and altitude as we walked from MBC at 3600m to Annapurna Base Camp at 4130m.
Thankfully Neil and I were not suffering with altitude sickness. Although, strangely, several of us spoke about having VERY wierd dreams throughout the trek! What was that about? We woke at sunrise to a lovely crisp morning and heard it had reached -6°C overnight (thank goodness for our ultra-warm sleeping bags) and were delighted to see we had a wonderful views of the mountains around us.
We set off bundled up in jackets, hats, and for me, my thickest gloves. There was ice on the puddles on the path, and some of the rocks had an icy smear so care was needed. Much as I wished to keep my eyes on the mountains, I had to watch my step. I didn’t want to slip at this stage! However, it was a nice, easy steady plod and as we got higher the views opened out before us.
Once we reached the large sign board for Annapurna Base Camp we paused for the obligitary photos – individual and a group photo. We all handed our cameras to Keshar who then proceeded to shoot 16 group photos in rapid succession with all our cameras.
From here it was a short hop to the tea houses at ABC. It was far too lovely to sit inside, so we enjoyed our welcome cup of tea outside. Just as soon as we arrived we heard a loud rumbling from the mountains and looked up to see an avalanche powering down the mountain slope. We were told there were currently no mountaineering expeditions on Annapurna, so the avalanche didn’t pose a danger to anyone.
We made use of the warm sunshine to give our sleeping bags an airing outside on the line, before walking a little further into the sanctuary to look at the memorials.
Meanwhile the porters tied up a net on the posts to have a game of volleyball.
The panorama and proximity of these big 8000+m mountains was awe-inspiring. The peaks of Hiunchuli, Annapurna South, Annapurna Fang, Annapurna 1 and 3, Gangapurna and Machhapuchhare all encircled us with unbroken soaring ramparts but for the route by which we entered.
The feeling of majesty and grandeur was reinforced by the prayer flags and memorials to the missing climbers dotting the place.
We reluctantly left the views of the mountains and glaciers and returned to the tea house. Once full of dahl bhat and tea the sun was still shining, so I walked out from base camp to the ridge overlooking the glacier and from which Chris Bonington led the ascent of Annapurna’s South Face.
I sat a while, completely alone, mesmerised by the mountains and by the rawness of the place. The silence of the base camp was disturbed occasionally by the crackling sound coming from the movement of the glaciers and glacial moraine falling into the ravine below me. At eon point I realised the rock I was perched on was an overhang and this face is what I’d heard falling! I shuffled back and found a safer observation spot where I sat until forced to retreat by the cold once the sun started slipping behind the peaks.
Having been lucky enough to see the sunrise this morning, we were doubly lucky to see the sunset.
It was only after the sun had gone completely and the temperature plummeted to near freezing that I went inside. That evening our porters joined us in the dining room in the tea house and after we’d eaten, they entertained us singing Nepail folk songs.
One of the young guys, Saurab was very patient as he tried to teach me the words to the famous Nepali song, Resham Firiri. I’m not a singer at the best of times, so really struggled!
Video of the porters and leaders singing
More photos of the day can be seen on Flickr